- Road Trip - Northern Thailand
Mr. Norman V. Konrad joined Mr. C.Cord Keller for a motorcycle tour of an extended version of the Mae Hong Song Loop out of Chiang Mai, Thailand. The first stop was Pai - a bohemian backpacker haunt.
We stayed one night before pushing south to Khan Yuam after pausing in Mae Hong Song for lunch. Hankering for a less-traveled part of the country we pushed on to Mae Sariang where we stayed for two days at a cushy riverside hotel.
We capped off our trip muscling the husky 650cc Kawasakis over 26 miles of terrible rutted dirt roads led by our Karen guide Naa Lii. Our destination - the Mae- Sa-Wannoi Waterfall - was well worth the ordeal. Water cascaded from a mountaintop spring into 5 separate waterfalls hidden in a lush jungle ravine.
- Burma Selects
- Chiang Mai Flood - Water Rising
The flooding continues to worsen here in Chiang Mai. I'm literally surrounded by a lake. The roads are awash and the water in some areas is rushing along at a good clip.
There's no telling how much higher the water will go. It's risen a meter in the last 24 hours.
- Japan
I was blase about my nine day rush through Japan. I had heard it was expensive, the people remote. Frankly, I was ready to hang up my sandals after 11 months of hard travel and even attempted to reroute to avoid it. I'm so glad I didn't. It was expensive but the people were friendly and helpful.
I loved the Tokyo city life - the oddball youth culture. The historic nooks and crannies of Kyoto were fascinating, gorgeous. I visited the Sky Garden and the Osaka Castle during my brief 36 hour stop-over in Osaka. Hiroshima was the highlight. I did a day trip to the island of Miyajima, hiked to the overlook on Mt. Misen and spent a few hours in the amazing Daisohin Temple. The Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum was a stunning tribute to the thousands who perished there, victims of the atomic bomb. I found myself sneaking off into a corner of the museum to wipe the tears from my eyes on a couple occasions.
I'm writing this in Los Angeles, jet lagged but renewed. The time's gone quickly and in a sense I feel as though I've just started my real adventure. I hope you have enjoyed these thoughts and pictures. Peace.
- Singapore
Singapore was an unexpected delight. I had become so accustomed to the inconveniences of Third World travel that my sudden immersion in Singapore's sanitized modernity was invigorating. The streets were spotless, trimmed with lush manicured gardens, the skyline was sprouting magnificent public works and state-of-the-art commercial architecture. The shopping centers and transit system were world-class. Even the zoo (and I generally dislike zoos) was intelligently designed and humane. There is little crime and I saw NO police on the street during my brief stay there.
The city's success is the result of a thriving economy and forward thinking governance. On the flip-side, I sensed a rigidity in the culture, a conformity that accompanies an obsession with order. I wasn't there long enough for it to become annoying. I'll have to come back. :)
- Thailand
Landed in Bangkok from Cario in the midst of civil unrest. The booming economy of the last two decades has done nothing to close the gap between the haves and the have-nots. The Red Shirts have taken to the streets. You'll seen none of that here - I came here to catch my breath, not dodge bullets...hello Phuket
- Laos
I backed into my trip to Laos after a bout of traveling fatigue. Somewhat revitalized in Thailand I thought I'd give it a go. Laos is impoverished, suffering one of the worst illiteracy rates in the world. The U.S. dropped more US bombs on this little country during the Viet Nam War then on all of Nazi Germany and Japan put together during WWII. And they were a neutral country - or so we were told. Historically Laos has been whipsawed by its powerful neighbors, which continues today in more subtle economic terms. Without question the country is tragically ill-fated. In light of this the Lao are a remarkable people; friendly and easy going and they made my journey a pleasure.
- Bali
My friend Joan has been living in Seminyak, Bali for fifteen years and its taking as long to get around to visiting her. I hung out at her spacious home, walked the beach (over-rated), read and wrote for a few days before we struck out across the island to Permuteran on the north coast. I finished my visit with four days in the amazing Ubud (not over-rated) before heading back to Bangkok to rally the Red Shirts.
- Egypt
Big bad Cairo - noisy, dirty and and home of some of the most gracious hosts I've encounter thus far (as well as some of the most annoying touts!). I spent a week here making my first efforts to wrap my brain around Egypt's 4500 years of history. The country offers an architectural " who's who" of significant movers and shakers. The home of monastic Christianity, the genesis of African Islam, not to mention over 2000 years of Pharaonic history. From Cairo I headed south down the Nile and visited a staggering array of ruined temples whose bones still manage to dazzle the imagination. The soundtrack is Nubian folk music. The Nubians lived south of Aswan until Nasser's dam went up, flooding their historic homelands.
- The Kalihari - Leopard Ecology & Conservation
The conservancy's camp is in Khutse, part of the Central Kalihari Game Reserve, the biggest game reserve in the world. It is a harsh and austere setting but one I grew to love during the two weeks I was a guest here. I tagged along on tracking expeditions and attended the community education program. In the process I met some fascinating people and saw stunning wildlife. Unfortunately, I trashed my camera early on so most of the photos included here were taken by David Mills, the Operations Director. From here I traveled (without camera) to the Okavanga Delta in Northern Botswana and Zambia to visit the stunning Victoria Falls.
- Southern Africa
Started out in big bad Johannesburg... Although I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw in Soweto, I found the city oppressive. Every black African I met here had been directly effected by past apartheid violence and with the townships suffering 30% unemployment, their optimism for the future was veiled at best. Flew to Gaborone, Botswana to meet David MIlls and Monika Schiess-Meier of Leopard Ecology & Conservation. Ended up being waylaid for a week while David healed from an animal attack - the Lueken's dog!
- Patagonia Peak Experience
From Futaleufu I headed south by bus to Coyhaique, then to Chile Chico where I crossed back over to Argentina to pick up a caravan for the 15-hour trip to El Chalten via historic Route 40. Very hard traveling… Took four days to cover a thousand K. Crossing to the eastern slope of the Andes brought me from the wet verdant rain forests to the barren wind-swept steppe. Stopped off in El Calafate and a day at Glaciar Perito Moreno then back in the bus to Puerto Natales to gear up for a four-day trek in Torres del Paine, a magnificent national park equaling Yosemite in its splendor. I finished my month-long tour of Patagonia in Ushuaia, located at the tip of the continent.
- Futaleufu, Chile
Stumbled on to this wonderful little Chilean town by accident. One day became three, then five...I eventually had to tear myself away. Situated a stones throw from some of the world's most beautiful and torrential rivers, the town has attracted kayakers and adventurers who have settled in over the last decade. Happily, the usual friction between cultures has thus far been minimized. Reminds me of some of my favorite places; Vermont, The Rocky Mountains, all with a little rain forest thrown in for good measure.
- Argentine Patagonia
I arrived at Puerto Madryn after a relatively comfortable 18-hour bus trip from Buenos Aires. Toured Pennisula Valdes in the morning with the throngs. Stayed at a small pension there and hiked up to a cove that morning before swimming with sea lions that afternoon! It goes on like that - a succession of events and new friends, all wonderful, novel and passionately pursued. A full tilt travel boogie. Madryn, Valdes, Punta Tombo, Gaiman, Esquel, Trevelin... all in five days.
- Buenos Aires Part II - - Nov. 5 - Jan. 5
Two months passed quickly... I quickly fell into a pleasant routine of Spanish study and writing. A finicky spring, we had lots of multi-trend days: packed with rain, sun, blustery winds. I was fortunate to have met or been introduced to a number of Argentineans early on in my stay and was swept along by their hospitality. I grew to love Buenos Aires with its decay and corruption. It's people are proud, a little headstrong and resistant to change but they've got a healthy grip on the important stuff; family, fun and fest. The music here was suggested by my old pal, Diane and is not meant as commentary - no matter what you think!
- Buenos Aires (rev.) Oct. 29 - Nov. 25, 2009
Arrived in Buenos Aries after an all night flight from Lima connecting through Bogata. The room I reserved in Palmero Soho turned out to be a construction site so I moved downtown to Restivo for the night, staying at my Porteno friend, Mara's with old pal, Randy Hayes who coincidentally was passing through the city from a board of director's meeting of Forest Trends in Patagonia.
Mara drove us out of the city for a windy riverside lunch. That night we took in the downtown art-walk, touring the top galleries of the city, seeing some incredibly vibrant new art. The the next day we wandered through the Recoleta Cemetary making our requisite pilgrimage to the Duarte Mausoleum to pay our respects to Evita.
Monday I started Spanish School (4 hours every morning five days a week) and bounced around a couple different lodgings as I looked (now desperately) for an apartment. Finally on Thursday, I found one in a very nice neighborhood and collapsed in a heap of nasty fluness. Currently on the mend...
- Machu Picchu and The Sacred Valley - Oct. 24 - 26, 2009
Got back to Cuzco in time to do laundry, change hotels, pick up stored luggage, confirm tour for morning departure, meet new friend Fernando, taxi to the outskirts of the city to mistaken address, return camping gear, change money, forget to eat, repack my bag, pay Jose and sleep a little before heading out to tour Pisac, Urubumba then Ollyantantabo where I connect with the train to Aquas Calientes to arrive that night to sleep a couple hours before rising at 4:30 AM to get in line for the first bus to Machu Picchu with about 500 other dazed tourists. That's packing it in.
- Cusco, Peru Oct. 16 - 19, 2009
Arrived in Cusco after a short flight from LIma. It's hard to imagine a bustling city at such a staggering altitude - nearly 11,000 ft. I was struggling with a mere flight of stairs...
I enjoyed my three days of acclimation, wandering the narrow cobblestone lanes and exploring the quirky bistros and cafes geared primarily for the tourists and backpackers. There was a hip edge here that reminded me of Katmandu in the early 70's. I didn't realize it yet but the prevailing tourist culture had made it's indelible mark on most of the Sacred Valley. The focus of interest being Machu Picchu which attracts no less than 500,000 visitors a year. Regardless of the negative impact of the reliance on tourist revenue I relished my time in these Incan homelands.
My trekking partner, Barry Batchelor took some of the pictures that I've included here.
- Trek to Choquequirao
As scheduled I met with my guide, Jose Antonio Pillco Flores at the lobby of my overpriced hotel near Plaza del Armas. He was charming, pleasant - looking a bit like a Peruvian rock star and turned out be be terrific.
I had a chance meeting with an Austrailian Ranger, Barry Batchelor at the South America Explorer's Clubhouse who was on a similar acclimation schedule as I. He showed the vaguest hint of being interested in joining Jose and I for the 5 day trek and I jumped all over it. We were now three. Barry proved to be a wonderful hiking partner - very knowledgeable in local flora with a globe trotter's savvy.
- LIma - Oct. 15 -17, 2009
Poor Lima. So maligned and misunderstood... I had a short stay in MIraflores, a lovely section of the city. Rather than finding blade wielding muggers, I found friendly, hospitable locals. I listened to a competent jazz band while eating incredible ceviche and the next night had one of the best served dinners in recent memory. I didn't take many photos during my brief stay here. In fact, I've included some photos that were taken by my Guide, Jhonie at the Monasterio de San Fransisco. I'm just getting up to speed on the technology of this website so bear with me. The musak's pretty lame. Time allowing, I'll download some of my own in the future.
(I've set up the "slideshow" to transition at a fast clip. If you want to read my captions, I suggest using the "Next" button to shuttle through the photos individually. )
- Send-Off
My gracious friend Monica offered her home for a small gathering of friends a couple nights before leaving Los Angeles. Really great people... I realized how fortunate I have been to have had the council and the friendship of these solid people. I know I will miss them. Terry organized a lottery to see who comes closest to predicting my return to LA. Between you and me I think they're all off by a long-shot...